Sailing in the Ionian

Not strictly the adventures of Daislebee, but certainly that of her skipper, who has temporarily gone to the dark side and went sailing in the Ionian. I had suggested the idea of a weeks sailing, just the two of us, my wife Caroline and I , and was most surprised when she agreed. She is not a keen sailor...but before she could change her mind it was booked and paid for....

Our home for a week

We arrived on Sunday 1st July with a quick and easy flight from Heathrow to Preveza that landed us in hot sunny weather , jut like we had left at home.... A air conditioned 40 minute trip round to Vilcho and we were the signing the papers and having a very efficient tour of the boat, a Bravaria 33.

The yacht was clean and tidy and had a excellent welcome pack that did us well over the next few days. Equipped with a dinghy and outboard as standard, this was a step up from previous charters where every little extra cost more....Sail Ionian had got off to a good start.

We were signed sealed and delivered by about 16.30 and set off for our first night's destination Spartakhori, on the north west top of Meganisis

Coach trip in orange - sail trip in blue

Leaving Vilcho - crew at the helm

Spartakhori is a lovely inlet, shelter from most directions with a pontoon laid on by the Porta Spilia taverna that allows mooring on both sides.  Although we were bare boat chartering, there was also an 'assisted flotilla'  which is slightly less formal than a conventional flotilla allowing more flexibility. We joined them for the night and having met Sean and his wife, an ex Inspector for Dorset, we decided to tag along with the assisted group the next day as well.

The meal at Porta Spilia was fine, nothing to shout about, but for a first night, tired and hungry, very welcome.

It was our first experience of mooring using a floating line from the quay and we had arranged some practice in the morning, but as it happened it went so well we cancelled.

(For those of you unfamiliar with this type of mooring it involves reversing up to the quay and passing both stern lines to a helping hand. You need to stop the boat before reaching the quay - three feet or so out and take back both lines tying them off and then motoring against them. Meanwhile another helping hand passes the crew a line that is tied to the quay but sinks as it runs out into the harbour to a strong fixing of some sort. The crew walks to the bow with the line and takes it in through the appropriate fair lead. The trick is then to pull as if you are pulling up the anchor until the line is tight - it helps to slacken the stern lines a few feet...make fast the tight floating or lazy line and then use the engine to take up the tension, tightening the stern lines so you balance the boat off the quay at a distance that enables your boarding ladder to be deployed.)

Pontoon at Spartakhori

The meal at the taverna was ok but we regretted not think of mosquito spray as sat at a table on the beach we soon became supper for the marinading mossies - I'd recommend having something from the grill as opposed to something that had been cooked and sat there waiting. We also made the mistake of ordering starters as sides dishes to the main course --any idea how many chillies you get as a starter course...dozens...and dozens.... lesson learned.

Monday

We had decided to go to Sivota which is on the southern end of Levkas and it turned out the assisted flotilla was going there as well so we would have help with the lines but we sailed, or rather motored northwards to start with to spend sometime in Ormos Varko, about 5 miles away . It is a wide open bay with an island plumb in the centre of the entrance.It is sand here and the water is lovely and clear, ideal for swimming.

Route to Varko

Ormos Varko

We did sail most of the way and anchored in about 3 meters and settled down to enjoy a swim, lunch, and more swimming- with a temperature of over 30 degrees the water was wonderful.

Later we set off to join the gang at Sivota - the great thing being we knew there would be a space for us...one of the benefits of the assisted approach.

Route to Sivota

On the way we passed the islands of Skorpios and Skorpidhi which used t be owned by the Onassis family but now apparently are owned by a Russian who discourages visitors with burly security guards.

Sivota is a lovely harbour, unseen from the sea it is set back in a deep and thin inlet safe from the prevailing winds. We reversed back onto a lazy line and were soon tied up at the quay, directly outside the favoured taverna.

Entering Sivota

Harbour at Sivota

We went for a wander around the harbour, resisting the administrations of the tavernas dotted around the quay trying to entice us in..all of them looked good but thirst was the issue, not hunger. Having found a bar and downed several ice cold beers we returned to the taverna we were moored against and after a wait, eased with more beer we went upstairs to the roof terrace. Service was slow but that didn't worry us ..where were we going.... but we received a free carafe of house white to ease the pain..which it did admirably.


Tuesday

Unfortunately something from the meal didn't agree with Caroline and she was confined to her berth the next day, which then posed a bit of a problem but having had breakfast and waited fir the fleet to leave, I slipped the mooring with no difficulty and set sail for our planned lunch time destination of  Arkoudhi, a small island between us and Ithaca were I wanted to get to for the evening.

The wind was great and I ended up reefing in keep the boat reasonably level for passenger comfort but still had a cracking sail.

I abandoned plans for a lunch stop and the crew was still comatose in their bunk and pressed on for Kioni on the island of Ithaca.

Route to Kioni

I had one moment of panic as, doing 7 knots, the depth sounder suddenly read 2 m....in the middle of the sea...I discovered that over 200 m it flickers between 2 and 3 m,..the chart re assured me we were in over 300 m of water...

Entering Kioni

The other event was seeing something like a sword fish, long, sleek and with a very point snout, repeatedly leaping out of the water just off the starboard bow.

Kioni was rammed, even early afternoon, so I attempted anchoring on the southern side with out success and moved over to a spot just inside the entrance where, with a fortuitous wind I was able to take a line to a rock on the shore and as the boat blew round secure it to the winch. Back on board I was able to tension the line so we lay stern to the rocks.

There was some drama that afternoon as I watch a lady with a young child paddle board past me out to sea, followed  by a young girl on her paddle board.

Possibly the way to travel....

I did wonder, as the wind was starting to get up and inflatable paddle boards don't have much directional stability..sure enough 10 minutes later a powerful rib tears out of the harbour and returns awhile later towing he boards behind with the Mun and child and young girl sitting in the boat...all's well that ends well.....

The wind got up so much that it became uncomfortable where we were so I recovered the lines and the crew who was feeling almost human by now raised the anchor.

We ventured into the harbour proper, with out much hope but to our surprise a dinghy moved out of the way and revealed a spot ideal for us, so we reversed in and made snug for the night.

On a long line - as they disappear out to sea......

Our snug berth 

View from the town

After a good meal, Caroline had got her appetite back, we retired to listen to the cheers and roars as the England world cup match ebbed and flowed...successfully at it turned out.


Wednesday

We decided to get in early at our next harbour and spend time swiping and looking around, so we set off after breakfast for the island of Atoko and the famous One House Bay en route to Kastos for the night.

We had a good sail over with the wind rising until we reached the lee of Atoko. One House Bay was a popular anchorage with turquoise  clear water and spectacular cliffs.

Route to Kastos via Atokos

One House Bay

 We didn't stay long..the beauty of the place marred by the number of boats jostling for position.

One boat however did stand out from the crowd. A huge blue British flag yacht nosed it the bay and anchored with precision making all the other 30, 40 and even 50 ft yachts look very small in comparison. - the ensign was the same size as our main sail....

British yacht in One House Bay

We continued on to Kastos, making our way to the only harbour on the island which is located on the south eastern side.

We arrived mid to early afternoon and found the quay already crowded but the was room for us to squeeze between two boats, one friendly , one not so. In fairness we accidentally dropped our anchor and chain across his and on enquiring they had to plans to move early so there would no problem there. He pointed out that he had angled his to take into account the direction of the wind but another skipper pointed out that the wind was now coming from the angle we had laid on he went a little quiet. We made friends when he and his crew when they helped move a dinghy and shared a beer - universal currency.

The stern of our boat - on the quay at Kastos

The quay at Kastos

We walked round to the far side of the harbour and had a lovely swim, while I checked out the anchors - yes - crossed but not tangled so no problem tomorrow.

The main attraction of Kastos is the Windmill bar on the hill to the south of the harbour.

The Windmill Bar

Views from

Across the bay

After a drink here we wander down to a taverna just below the Windmill which had fantastic views. There were a number of South African boats in the harbour, which had filled with boats long lining to the beach and their crews seemed settled in for a big party.

 Kastos with the quay in the distance and boats long lined to the
 beach in the foreground

Thursday

The shorter sailing days appealed to Caroline, so we decided to take a short trip just around the corner to the next island, Kastos bigger relation Kalamos.

Again there is only the single harbour which effectively run by George, who is so well known that he even appears in the cruising pilot books.

route from Kastos to Kalamos

We headed north with little or no wind so the motor was on and threaded ourselves through the gap with the small island just north of Kastos.

The quay at Kalamos on arrival

The same quay later in the evening -
boats are also rafted up on the other side  (left of  picture)

George obviously keeps a good look out for approaching yachts and his white shirt and captains cap are easily visible as he waves to attract your attention. He directs yachts into suitable berths and assists with their lines, before introducing himself and pointing out his taverna at the end of the quay and all the benefits it has to offer. Later on as the harbour fills he can be seen racing around in his white motor boat, directing yachts and telling them where to drop their anchors..the bottom must be a real cats cradle - but amazingly the next morning there were very few crossed lines..and yes George is on hand to help...very proactive.

We walked up the hill to find the bakers - so hot..and steep but an interesting view and church.

The church at Kalamos

Typical street

Our boat on the quay - before the crowd arrived

We ate that night at Georges and had the best white snapper for a long time. Sat there enjoying the view I heard an then saw a familiar voice and face - James Wilder, who had joined us on the Morbihan adventure in 2017 was there with his family, on the second week with the same Sail Ionian as us.
He and I caught up over a few beers later that evening....enough said.



Friday

We needed to start heading homewards and although we were quite north in the Ionian we needed to move west so we selected Vathi  which is on the north east side of Meganisi - you need to be careful  there are several places called Vathi  in the Ionian - get the right one.

Route to Vathi

There was no wind again so, setting off quite late, we motored out of Kalamos and headed north round the top of the island.

The quay at Vathu

Looking out towards the sea

We crossed the bay and entered Vathi tying up at the quay at the far end of the harbour - apparently they charge 4 euros here but no one came and asked for money and there were no signs so perhaps not.

The road runs right behind the boats at the quay - not busy but it did feel starring having cars that close - it was worse at 05.00 am when the dust cart came to empty the bins - they are an intriguing design - a hydrolic pedal operated steel lid allows access to a shute for rubbish that runs below ground - very neat and tidy .....BUT..when they are emptied the whole arrangement is raised to ground level and the full bin slid out to be replaced by an empty one...as you can imaging not a silent operation.

That evening we ate at the Rose Garden, which is the far side of the square behind the quay, and had probably the best meal of the week.


Saturday

Our last day..and we decided to chill...we didn't have far to travel so popped out of Vathi and back east a couple of miles to a bay we had spotted on the way in the day before.

Route to bay

We spent a lovely day, swimming and relaxing in the quiet anchorage. The fish were quite happy to come close if you tempted them with bread.

Later that day we saw a drama unfold - I spotted a pillar of smoke some distance away and through the binoculars and saw a sizeable yacht with black smoke billowing from the cockpit - flames could soon be seen at the base of the smoke. The genoa was still up and the boat circled aimlessly for 20 - 30 minutes before the mast collapsed and eventually the smoke turned to white and dissipated.
I monitored Ch 16 but not a peep - other boats were in the vicinity of the yacht but there was no obvious rescue activity - compare that to the Solent where the radio would have been buzzing, Life boats, helicopters, the full monty - here is Greece ..not a lot.

When we set out for the bay where the base is we had a good sail over and a large patch of sea was oily and calm, in spite of the wind.

Route to the Bay

I had spoken to the base the day before and it appeared that the fleet was going to anchor on the eastern side of the bay overnight and use the tavernas there before crossing to the base on the western side the next morning. The wind was forecast NW so we headed to the eastern side and had a meal at one of the tavernas.

A quiet anchorage - then.......

As we ate the wind got up and we didn't linger, heading back to the boat quite early.

Back on the boat the wind steadily increased, to the point that I knew I'd be on anchor watch all night and Caroline wouldn't sleep at all. So we decided to go over to the base and see in there was room for us, or a buoy free for us to moor to.

As soon as the anchor was raised the wind increased dramatically - so much so that Caroline felt better staying at the bow. I couldn't leave the wheel to go the the VHF downstairs so I just headed for the base at Vilcho.

The boat was heeling as if she was sailing, with the force of the wind on the superstructure.

I got to the base and set about seeing how the boat would turn in the wind. The force of the wind was so strong that she just sat at 60 degrees to the wind with a lot of reverse engine revs. I thought that I could head up about the base and turn the other way and see how she lay then, but before i did a rib shot out from the Sail Ionian base and Otto pulled himself aboard.

Although we missed the first berth and nearly rammed the boats downwind of us, he managed to get her into a berth and I threw the lines to waiting hands. Two..yes two lazy lines and another line onto a winch and we were snug..but the wind just howled, spray and spume everywhere. The boats on the up wind side of the concrete pontoon had their engines at 3500 revs to keep off the jetty. The recorded wind on the jetty was 67 knots !!! just under 80 mph

It lasted until 12.30 and then like a light it was turned off and peace reigned..well I say peace - the festival that had been the reason for staying over the other side then started...delayed by the wind..and that went on til 04.00 ..not good.

Saturday

The day dawned as if the night before had never happened..and having cleared the boat we sat in the cool cafe until the coach arrived to take us home.

Reflections

A great company, very impressed. The boat was good, well equipped, everything worked . The staff very friendly and helpful and the Ionian - great play ground - certainty bears more exploration - would do it again but perhaps nearer to one end of the season or other...not over crowded but busy at times in the small harbours.

But would take or ensure I had a handheld VHF to supplement the main on in the cabin and mosquito spray

Cruise to the Dartmouth Rally - June

After many plans, changes of plans and new plans we, (Slinger Woods and I), decided to go for it - sail to the Dartmouth Rally and back.

We had originally planned to trail down but decided the sail would be fun - see lessons learnt...at the end of this article.

I had hoped to have lost of pictures to add to this article but as you will see later luck wasn't with me.


Wednesday 6th June

So it was we met on Wednesday morning, sorted the boats out and launched on the rather low mid afternoon tide. The weather was stunning, hot sun, blue skies and the wind on the nose to get to Yarmouth but you can't have everything.

We set off with the tide and ended up motoring all the way to Yarmouth where we spent a quiet and comfortable night.


Thursday 7th June

An early start - 07.00 to get the tide out through the Needles and across the bay. Another beautiful day and with such clam conditions we were able to take the Needles Channel out and the cut across the western end if the Shingles shallows taking a direct course to Studland, were we arrived for lunch and a snooze before setting off in the late afternoon once the tide had turned to round St Albins Head.

I am always fascinated but the chalky white cliffs of Old Harry's rocks and did go in quiet close to look at the caves that would be fun exploring in a dinghy in the right conditions. The strata of the rock can be seen running horizontally along the cliff face...until you reach the Swanage Bay where it must have met one hell of a force as the strata abruptly turns 90 degrees up.

It was a quiet rounding of the head as the tide was slack and we snuck into Chapman's Pool  taking advantage of the consistent N NE breeze that made it very sheltered.

Although rafted up on two anchors, amazingly enough in the morning there was just one turn in the lines which was easily sorted.


Friday 8th June

Another early start a) because there was a long way to go and b) because we wanted to miss the range boats so up at 06.00 and away, across to Portland and then Lyme Bay - direct to Dartmouth.

On this course we were due to go 3 or 4 miles south of the Race at Portland Bill, and as it was the conditions were so good we didn't see or hear anything of it.

It is just under 60 miles so we hoped for some good winds, but to start with we had to motor until the breeze picked up - which it did and allowed me to test my new cruising shute to great effect.

Click here for a video

As you can see we had the sea to ourselves and the sail worked really well.

The wind came and went and eventually I had to stow the sail and motor. We arrived tired and hungry at 19.30 after a long day on the water.

We rushed to 'On the Rocks' where we met the rest of the rally participants as well as Mark and Jill, the hosts. The first and second beers hardly touched the sides but after some excellent fish and chips and an adjournment to the Dartmouth Yacht Club bar the world looked a whole lot better.

Saturday 9th June

We sailed up river to the Malsters Arms at Tuckenhay. There were about nine in the fleet, mainly Drascombe Coasters but a D22, and some luggers, and a Dabber sailed by Dave Staniforth who gave me a run for my money tacking up the river.

We met Stewart and Lorna at the pub, and enjoyed pot of mussels before sailing back down to the pontoon at Dartmouth and catching the ferry across to Kingswear and a BBQ at Mark's house on the hill.

Sunday 10th June

The fleet left the pontoon at 10.00 with the plan to go out and see the seals on the Mew Stone rocks

In the event two or three of the boats did the circuit with others poking their heads out and then heading back into the river to whichever slipway they had launched from to recover and make their way home.

I had Mark as crew and we had arranged for Jill to collect him from Brixham later on so Slinger and I set sail along the red brown coast on the start of our journey back to the Solent.

The wind died and so the motor came on and we followed Slinger into Brixham Harbour tying up at the Visitors pontoon. Mark had time for a few beers before Jill arrived to take him home, leaving Slinger and I to explore Brixham and enjoy a good meal and wine overlooking the harbour.

Monday 11th June

Brixham to Exmouth - with a brief stop in Shaldon to reminisce about sailing there as a boy. The weather was lovely but the wind again notable by its absence. The main feature of the journey was the long lines of buoys that stretched for considerable distances.. at first I thought they were long nets which would be awful walls of death hanging in the bay but no ...it appears that mussels farming is big business theses days. 

Shaldon/Teignmouth harbour

Shaldon hadn't changed it would appear and after a drink and a rest we headed back out to sea, which is when disaster struck...well a minor calamity..the wind had got up just enough to fly the cruising shute which went well for  awhile...then the wind died and whilst lowering the sail I let the halyard run though the block...grrr..no more cruising shute on this voyage...and it would have come in very handy as it turned out.

Ah well....into Exmouth and a night on the visitors buoys..the tide runs really strongly in the estuary but we had a quiet night.

Tuesday 12th June

We set out in great weather with tide and wind in our favour along the coast with Lyme Regis our destination.

Almost immediately the wind died and then we were directed offshore by a range boat which wasn't too bad and at least you could hear the small arms firing that made it seems sensible - not like Lulworth where you are sent miles offshore but rarely if ever hear any sounds of activity.

The wind came back but it was a motor sail...which was when I discovered the problem...a dribble of oil appeared at the edge of the engine casing cover.....!!!!!!

I stopped the engine and opened the cover to find what I thought was oil...lots of it..swilling around in the bilge....on closer inspection it was too watery and was eventually traced to a water pump leak..but still not good....I bailed out and pressed on for Lyme.

Here we berthed on the temporary pontoon they put in for summer...we moved round to the inner area seeking less swell but later that night regretted it and I had to move at about 01.00 back to the main part of the pontoon..it was just too rough ..things settled down away from the shallower water and I got back to sleep.

The facilities at Lyme are limited and we baulked at the proposed £20 charge for each boat - there are no toilets or showers and the water is shared with the fishermen  so the chap who said he was the harbour master accepted £10 for both of us and seemed happy..not surprised..no receipt.....

The engine needed bailing out again but it seems about a litre over two or three hours so no real drama.

Wednesday 13th June

We set out along the coast, timing our run to Portland Bill in good weather and some reasonable wind, but that died as we reached Bridport and it was then a motor to the Bill. A mist came in and on the approach to the inshore passage the water became very rough for a short distance. I couldn't see the Bill until I was in the inner channel and even then only the bottom half of the lighthouse was visible in the mist.

Once round the Bill we set off across the bay. The wind had set in and progress was very good. On the approach to St Albins you could hear the roar of the overfalls out to sea...we snuck in close and although it was turbulent the waves picked you up and carried you on your way..at one point nearly 11 knots.....

Tony had a drama with his main sail collapsing into the cockpit as a shackle undid itself and I had the fright of my life....

in the mist and the sound of the roaring waves I could hear the steady beat of a helicopter...getting louder and louder until I could feel the beat in my chest like a big drum being banged next to me...but I couldn't see it...and then suddenly at what appeared to be mast height it appeared...a huge insect like Chinook with its double rotors beating..lights on......It wasn't only the height that made my heart lurch, although in truth he must have been 150 ft plus..it was the fear of the down draft on my little boat....

The pilot obviously had the same thought and veered off sharply before resuming his course as he disappeared into the mist...I did take a moment after that....

Round the corner towards Swanage and Poole the sun came out and we had a glorious sail into the harbour..tying up in the Town Quay marina in time to grab an indifferent curry from a local takeaway.

Thursday 14th June

Bob Walpole came down and help get Tony's halyard down so he could use his mainsail again and brought a drill with him to repair his auto helm fixing..breakfast at Wetherspoons followed..where else!!  before we popped into Salterns marina for fuel and set out across the bay for the Needles.

The weather was great and the sailing good..very rough a long way off Hengisbury Head but no problem..but we did have to start slowing down as we were arriving too early at the tidal gate.

The reproach was very rough as we meandered about trying to waste time and that is when the next disaster struck..a seemingly innocuous wave slapped me on the stern and popped over the top to run round the cockpit...picking up my phone which I intended to use to film the entrance in the process...hence no pictures for this trip..drowned Samsung...grrrr

The tide stopped fighting the wind and we slipped into the Solent with out any problem.

A run up to Cowes and into Shepards for the night.

Friday 15th June

A leisurely start as we needed water at Ashlett to get in but good weather and a good sail across . We arrived home tried buy happy with the trip.

I mentioned lesson learned.....we should have trailed...it was a long long sail on some days and only fleeting visits to places I would have liked to explore more...so next time a days trail to get there...6 or 7 days looking around and a day back...much more sensible...but it was fun ..if tiring.

Early May Bank Holiday rally

The rally got off to a good start with a cook in at the club house on the Thursday evening, while we waited for those who 'still have work commitments' to join us...(it's a nice feeling not to have).

Friday

We launched as soon as the tide permitted and once the departing fleet that consisted of Daislebee, D22 "Bolitho" with Stewart B,  Shrimper "Moonfleet" with Robin and Ross, Coaster "Moksha" with Ian C, Coaster "Bon Amiee" with John and Sandy, Nick in D22 "Isabel" and  Jim H in Gig "Hippo" had fully assembled we set off for Newtown Creek. The weather was good and the wind and tide kind and we were soon joining Marcus in "Sundance" an original Drifter, in two rafts where a convivial evening ensued.

Saturday

The next morning we departed Newtown setting sail for Ryde. The weather was glorious and although the wind was light and eventually gave way to nothing the tide was with us all the way.

Leaving Newtown Creek

For an extended version click here 

On arrival at Ryde we found it very full but the advantage of being small showed itself as we tucked ourselves away. We were joined by Jeff in his much larger yacht and Adrian in his Coaster  " Torridon" who had both sailed over from Chichester. Also along for the day was Bill and Wayne in their club's Skipper 18, having sailed from the Itchen at the top of Southampton Water.

Fish and chips was order of the day for most and another pleasant evening was had. (For those that visit Ryde the chip shop we like is thorough the gardens between the amusement area and the shower and toilet facilities, in Monkton St.)

Sunday

The next morning was another glorious day and several of us succumbed to the delights of the local cafe (also in Monkton St) The breakfast is good but the owner seemed surprised to have a lot of customers on a bright sunny bank holiday weekend.......

Once breakfast had settled the real business of the day got under way. the inaugural round of the Drascombe Crazy Golf tour.

Two teams of three and a four were drawn up...well, randomly put together really....

Marcus, Jim and Stewart eyeing the lie of the green
(ignore the guy on the roof ....he is a pirate)

Jim, Stewart and Adrian - a serious business

John taking it easy

Nick, Robin and Ross

The declared joint leaders after Round One were Stewart, Adrian and Marcus.

Round One leaders - Marcus, Stewart and Adrian

Once the water was in we had a quick rally photo before the main fleet set off for Gosport and a date with the Chinese in the High Street.

The rally crew

John and Sandy, Nick, Wayne and Bill had to depart for home ports will the rest of us set sail in light winds for Gosport - uneventful except for Jim's engine failing and having to tow him into harbour.

On arrival at Gosport things didn't go as planned - crisis...no room at the Chinese...still we made do ant the very excellent restaurant in the lightship at the marina ..a very good, if not more expensive alternative. We were joined by Simon, Sharon and Hannah.

Monday

We were blessed all weekend with lovely weather, wind was lacking but hot and sunny and Monday was no exception. Jim and I had a motor round the harbour looking at the sights including the new aircraft carrier.

Queen Mary in Portsmouth

We all departed and had a quiet journey back to Ashlett - a successful trip all round.